Age: A general rule of thumb is that, before an item can be considered an antique, it needs to be at least 70 to 100 years old. Things such as; hallmarks, stamps on the back/bottom or manufacturers labels are all very helpful, as are older auction labels or dealer tags. Any documentation and information on the item lends value.

Condition: Condition is "everything"! Try to determine how closely a piece resembles it's original condition. Short of mint condition, it is of the greatest importance to closely examine every inch and every surface in order to discover any flaws or issues with the piece. Be sure to make a note all of your findings. For example, if the drawers or hardware of a commode were repaired or replaced, it detracts from it's original condition. If porcelain or fine china has a repair, a hairline crack or a chip, the value will be seriously diminished. If the wiring or any mechanical aspects are replaced on a mechanical antique toy, it reduces it's value.

Quality: The quality of an item refers to how well it was originally made. This might refer to the type of material used or the way in which the piece was manufactured. It might also refer to the construction or the design of an item. Higher quality antiques are generally worth more, but lower quality antiques can also possess an intrinsic charm and value of their own. Never pass up an item without careful examination and thorough research. Remember, "one mans garbage is another man's treasure".

Rarity: It all boils down to the simple law of supply and demand. For example, if a popular book had 4000 copies made on the first printing, those copies would be worth less than a popular book with only 1000 copies from the first printing. Something that's mass produced isn't really the best example, however. Due to it's intrinsic rarity, a "one-of-a-kind" object will always be more valuable.

Provenance: The provenance of an item is it's documented history. When the provenance of an antique crosses with historically significant events or people, an otherwise nice antique becomes a priceless piece of history. The more documentation you can find, and the more significant the history, the more valuable the antique.

Patina: Patina is the wear and tear to the finish, plus any nicks, chips, and/or other signs of use in an antique. Generally speaking, the less patina, the more valuable the antique. There are cases, such as in garden ornaments, where patina adds charm and therefore value, so don't be too concerned about it. Any antique over a hundred years old will usually have some issues, no matter how slight. The question is whether or not it adds character to the piece or makes it look unattractive.

Original Finish: The original finish; paint, enamel, varnish, veneer or whatever protective coating was used at the time it was made, is always more valuable than something that's been refinished. Be careful about stripping or refinishing antique painted furniture; it could reduce it's value.

Price: Determining the right price for an antique can be quite difficult because there's often nothing you can compare the piece to, especially when something is extremely rare or has an interesting provenance. If you have serious doubts about purchasing something as an investment, contact someone more knowledgeable than yourself. You might develop a relationship with a reputable local antiques dealer, or an appraiser at an auction house. One technique to use with antiques or collectibles is to do an ebay search http://www.ebay.com  ...at the very least this will give you an idea of how saturated the market may be for a particular item. As you learn more about antiques, the risks will shrink, and your rewards will grow!

I hope this has been helpful to you. I invite you to visit my website at http://www.antiquesusablog.com and email me at antiquesusa@msn.com with any questions

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