When you antique furniture shop do you ever wonder what an antique furniture appraiser, antique dealer or auctioneer means when they mention the word “patina” while describing a piece antique furniture? If you were to ask them to define the word for you, they most likely would not be able to do so? It's like saying a piece is "elegant", it's hard to define but if find a piece that has elegance, you'll recognize it.

So what does "patina" actually mean? There are some who think the answer is simply two words: “old grime.” But that is too much too basic and not completely true. Antique dictionaries define patina as "a film or encrustation on the surface of an object indicating great age". This is a fair beginning but, with antique furniture, it entails considerably more than that. The “Encyclopedia of Furniture,”
by Joseph Aronson, defines it as "Color and texture of the surface produced by age and wear. In wood furniture the varnish, shellac or oil has a tendency to deepen yet retains transparency; edges wear smooth and sharp outlines are softened.” This is now getting a little more to the point...

However, that still doesn’t quite define it because all of those particular attributes can easily be replicated by an experienced restorer/refinisher, so therefore, there needs to be more to it than that. But Aronson did make a credible attempt to define the term. A good many of the books on antique furniture shun the term completely because it's so difficult to define briefly and correctly, or else
they just mention it in passing. An example can be found in “American Furniture,” by Marvin D. Schwartz, which describes patina as the “Mellow and worn aspect a surface acquires through age; highly desirable quality on most antique furniture.” That skirts around it pretty well...

John Obbard, in “Early American Furniture” (Collector Books, 2000), goes int more detail stating “Patina is the cumulative effect of age, sunlight, wear and grime on old surfaces of wood and metal …” The “Antiques Roadshow Primer,” by Carol Prisant (Workman, 1999), takes a more humanistic approach, saying patina is “the sheen on a surface caused by long handling …” and that it is “… the
accumulation of wax, soil, stains and oils that human hands have left on furniture over the course of many years, have created a smooth film of, well, dirt.” So, there it is...we humans caused it; not sunlight, humidity or the atmosphere.

So, by industry definitions, an antique furniture piece that has patina is dirty, oily, grimy, worn, beat up, faded, rounded and basically unpleasant. Using those definitions, I have some extremely patinated hiking boots. That can't be all there is to patina...

Therefore, whatever it is, patina has not always been universally desirable. Surely renowned furniture makers did not send out their masterpieces all dirty and grimy. They went out to the market all shiny and clean, new and fresh, and 20 or 30 years ago that was the way much of the antiques trade—including some museum curators—preferred their antiques. And that’s the way many buyers
wanted their newly acquired, old pieces to look. They didn’t want all that dirty old stuff in their new dining room or bedroom, with a crackly old dark finish that could be hiding almost anything, especially the beauty of 200-year-old mahogany.

The current emphasis on originality and patina is just that; current. But it wasn’t the case 30 years ago and may not be the case 30 years from now.

Perhaps the definition of patina is not as important as we thought it was. Perhaps patina, which, in and of itself, is not always a beautiful thing. Judging by the industry definitions, should just be regarded as one more tool the questioning new or experienced collector, can use to verify the apparent age of a piece.

If you are tempted to discuss the patina of a piece with a dealer or auctioneer, think about it for a moment and ask yourself, “Does this piece look, smell and feel old?” That may very well be the best definition of all.


Be Sure To Visit My Website!: Buy Wholesale Antique Furniture

Here's a great source! Compact road sweepers 

Buy Antique Furniture - Establishing Value When You Antique Furniture Shop

If the world of antique furniture is new to you and you want to buy antique furniture it may seem like establishing a value, when you antique furniture shop, for the pieces you are intersted in is extremely difficult. However, it's' really not that difficult, once you've researched your chosed area of collecting and then looked at enough of it so that you become familiar with prices. 

A good way to start would be to narrow down your choices and look only for a certain period or style that interests you. This will make the process simpler and cut out much of the confusion that can make it seem more difficult than it is. 

Antiques are valued for their age, condition, rarity, artistic quality and uniqueness. Many antique furniture collectors are familiar with the basics of how to establish the value of antique furniture pieces and can quickly determine whether it's a genuine antique, a reproduction or a fake. Although this know-how is not acquired easily, there are many guidelines available to assist first time antique furniture collectors. 

Once you have a good undersanding of values in your chosen area of antique furniture, you can then begin the fun part and start collecting pieces, either for investment or to furnish your home. 

One of the first things beginning collectors, who want to determine the value of any antique piece, should look for is the mark or label of the maker. This is one way to determine if the items are authentic or fake. Beginning antique furniture collectors can then research the maker online to identify the mark or label and then consult with an antique furniture expert to further establish the authenticity of thepiece. 

Another important thing for establishing the value of an antique furniture piece is to carefully examine it's condition. Pieces that are in mint, excellent or good condition have a higher value than damaged or defective pieces. Antique furniture pieces that are all original and in perfect condition are greatly coveted by collectors.

However, the value of some pieces that are historic or unique, even if they're chipped or cracked, may still be quite high. Even though most antique furniture values are established according to age and artist quality, most antique furniture collectors look for antiques that are in fairly good condition. There are some collectors, however, who do purchase items with small defects, as long as their value is significantly high because of other factors.

The next thing to look at is antique furniture values are determined for their rarity and uniqueness. In the world of antique furniture, rarity refers to how many other like items can be found on the market. Rare antique furniture pieces will definitely be high in value regardless of condition. 

Another important thing to look for in determining the value of antique furniture is the provenance of the piece. Learning the history and where the piece comes from will greatly help you to know its value.

Keep in mind, not all antique furniture pieces that are at least 50 years old will have the same value. In many cases, the value of antique furniture is based on the concept that when demand for the item increases, so does its monetary value. 

The biggest debate when it comes to antique furniture regards authenticity. Over time there have been very accurate reproductions of valuable antiques and inexperienced buyers might find it difficult to distinguish a reproduction from a fake to the real thing.

Because of this, there are a number of references and reliable sources available to assist first-time buyers determine authenticity before they buy antique furniture. One of the best, and one we suggest, is to consult with professionals and specialists if you are planning to spend a significant amount of money on an antique furniture piece. Most of them will give you their unbiased opinion.

Do not rush to buy antique furniture if you are not sure of it's origin, authenticity and value...take it slow, get an expert opinion, and with their help you will be able to avoid falling for prices that are too good to be true. Do not hurry into buying an antique furniture piece if you are not sure of its origin. Take your time and get an expert opinion!

Visit my website at http://www.antiquesusablog.com and view our extensove collection of antique furniture. Be sure to email with any questions...we welcome all serious inquiries and offers!

 

Buy Antique Furniture - Establishing Value When You Antique Furniture Shop

If the world of antique furniture is new to you and you want to buy antique furniture it may seem like establishing a value, when you antique furniture shop, for the pieces you are intersted in is extremely difficult. However, it's' really not that difficult, once you've researched your chosed area of collecting and then looked at enough of it so that you become familiar with prices. 

A good way to start would be to narrow down your choices and look only for a certain period or style that interests you. This will make the process simpler and cut out much of the confusion that can make it seem more difficult than it is. 

Antiques are valued for their age, condition, rarity, artistic quality and uniqueness. Many antique furniture collectors are familiar with the basics of how to establish the value of antique furniture pieces and can quickly determine whether it's a genuine antique, a reproduction or a fake. Although this know-how is not acquired easily, there are many guidelines available to assist first time antique furniture collectors. 

Once you have a good undersanding of values in your chosen area of antique furniture, you can then begin the fun part and start collecting pieces, either for investment or to furnish your home. 

One of the first things beginning collectors, who want to determine the value of any antique piece, should look for is the mark or label of the maker. This is one way to determine if the items are authentic or fake. Beginning antique furniture collectors can then research the maker online to identify the mark or label and then consult with an antique furniture expert to further establish the authenticity of thepiece. 

Another important thing for establishing the value of an antique furniture piece is to carefully examine it's condition. Pieces that are in mint, excellent or good condition have a higher value than damaged or defective pieces. Antique furniture pieces that are all original and in perfect condition are greatly coveted by collectors.

However, the value of some pieces that are historic or unique, even if they're chipped or cracked, may still be quite high. Even though most antique furniture values are established according to age and artist quality, most antique furniture collectors look for antiques that are in fairly good condition. There are some collectors, however, who do purchase items with small defects, as long as their value is significantly high because of other factors.

The next thing to look at is antique furniture values are determined for their rarity and uniqueness. In the world of antique furniture, rarity refers to how many other like items can be found on the market. Rare antique furniture pieces will definitely be high in value regardless of condition. 

Another important thing to look for in determining the value of antique furniture is the provenance of the piece. Learning the history and where the piece comes from will greatly help you to know its value.

Keep in mind, not all antique furniture pieces that are at least 50 years old will have the same value. In many cases, the value of antique furniture is based on the concept that when demand for the item increases, so does its monetary value. 

The biggest debate when it comes to antique furniture regards authenticity. Over time there have been very accurate reproductions of valuable antiques and inexperienced buyers might find it difficult to distinguish a reproduction from a fake to the real thing.

Because of this, there are a number of reliable sources available to assist first-time buyers determine authenticity before they buy antique furniture. One of the best, and one we suggest, is to consult with professionals if you are planning to spend a significant amount of money on an antique furniture piece. Most specialists will give you their unbiased opinion.

Do not rush to buy antique furniture if you are not sure of it's origin, authenticity and value...take it slow and get an expert opinion. and with their help you will be able to avoid prices that are too good to be true. Do not hurry into buying an antique furniture piece if you are not sure of its origin. Take your time and wait for an advised opinion!

Visit my website at http://www.antiquesusablog.com to see some great antique furniture. Be sure to let us know if you have any questions...We welcome all serious questions and offers!

How Do You Know If Furniture Is Antique, Reproduction or Fake?

 Actually, being able to tell the difference is not very hard...you do not need to be an expert. There are many signs that let you know if a piece is a genuine antique, fake or a reproduction before you buy antique furniture. If you do your research beforehand and look carefully at each piece, you'll be able to quickly spot fakes or reproductions based on several factors; wood, patina, style, etc.

From the 18th Cetury on, most furniture designers marked their pieces with either a signature or label. But, there are some pieces that do not have these marks and if so, we need to find other signs in order to measureage.

Here are several tips to help you...

*Style is one very important factor to determine a piece's age. Knowing the different elements used in various styles will greatly help in determining age. This can be done by research and study, and actually seeing antique furniture by visiting shops, historic homes or museums and viewing the different styles before you buy antique furniture.

*Wood is also critical in measuring a piece's age. You need to be able to recognize different types of wood and know in  which period of history each was used. Also take note of carving; oak was a relatively difficult wood to carve - but as walnut and mahogany became popular, carving the wood became easier and finer and more intricate carvings are found. If a piece has the original carved decoration, it greatly adds to it's desirability. Some pieces were embellished later with carving and are much less desirable than those with original carvings.
 
*Patina is a very telling factor becuse it shows actual wear and use that is extremely difficult to fake, although many fake antique furniture makers try.  
 
*Proportions are fundamental in recognizing the quality of a piece and determining it's correct. A piece that appears heavy at the top, or has legs that are out of proprtion may well be a "marriage" (two separate pieces that did not originally belong together is termed a "marriage"). The married parts may be from a the same or a similar period, or one of the parts may be from a later period. Marriages are much less desirable than pieces with all original parts, and in original condition. Carefully examine before you buy antique furniture to make sure it isn't a marriage.

*Alterations done to antique furniture makes the piece less desirable than if it were left in its original condition. Among the most common alterations are large pieces which have been reduced in size, have freshly cut surfaces, repositioned handles, or plugged holes.
 
*Feet are very useful in dating and recognizeing a particular style. However, because centuries of standing on damp floors takes it's tole and often causes feet to rot, many have been replaced. Comparing the wood of the feet with the rest of the piece will help to decide whether or not they're original.

*Construction is another way to tell: early furniture was constructed using mortise-and-tenon joints held together by wood pegs or dowels, instead of glue or screws. This method was used until the late 17th century. Pegs were handmade and stand slightly above the surface. Machine-made pegs that were made later are perfectly symmetrical, and are either flush with the surface or slightly recessed. From the early 18th century, joints were dovetailed and glued, and until the end of the 18th century, when the circular saw was introduced, all wood was sawn by hand and shows straight saw marks. After 1800 circular marks can be visible on the surface of unfinished wood.

*Joints can help you to Recognize different kinds of antique furniture and can also help you in determining the quality of a piece. If you discover that a chair is constructed using mortise and -tenon joints as opposed to dowel construction, for example, you can be sure it's a high-quality chair. The same is true about furniture with dovetail construction on the drawers as opposed to rabbet-joint drawers. Dovetails are better joints and will last indefinitely. Dovetails are the triangular joints that fit together on the corners of drawers. They became progressively finer as time passed and can help with dating a piece. Drawers had channels in their sides and, until the 18th century, ran on runners set into the body. Some drawers ran on the dust boards and had no runners. From the Queen Anne period the runners were placed under the drawer at the sides and ran on bearers placed on the inside of the body.

*Screws will determine age...the earlier the screw, the cruder it will be. The groove on old screws tends to be off-centre and the top irregular. The thread is also irregular and open and, unlike modern screws, runs the entire length of the shank.

*Locks that are early are usually made of wrought iron and held in place with iron nails. From the 18th century, locks were steel or brass and secured with steel screws. Locks are often replaced and, although this isn't a serious issue, it's better to have original locks.

*Drawer pulls and handles can provide a useful clue to dating, because styles changed from period to period. It's common to find pieces with replaced handles and, like locks, it's preferable to have handles that blend with the rest of the piece. From 1960 handles were secured by pommels and nuts. Antique pommels were hand cast in a single piece of brass. The thread goes only half way up the shank, and the remainder of the shank is square-shaped. Modern pommels are made from brass heads with steel shanks and the thread runs the whole length of the shank. The nuts used to attach drawer pulls and handles in the 18th century were circular and slightly irregular. You can recognize modern nuts if they are regular and hexagonal.

Learning how to recognize antique furniture is a very broad field, professionals often specialize in a certain style or period from a certain region or country. However, you can look for general knowledge on the subject or drill down further  to find the smallest detail about a certain period or styl you are interested in...it's all up to you as to far you want to go.

I wish you great success with your research and collecting endeavers if you decide to buy antique furniture !

 

How to shop for, find and buy that perfect piece of antique furniture...

People frequently ask me how to buy antique funiture and what important points they should look for when they shop for antique furniture. There are styles, periods and price points to accommodate every possible need. These can range from primitive to formal, rustic Americana to sleek modern, fine antique to contemporary, inexpensive to uber expensive. It is important to know various antiques styles, periods and descriptive terminology as this can help you know what to look for in antique furniture. And knowing their market price can help you avoid the mistake of overpaying for antique furniture pieces.
 
Making the decision to buy antique furniture, having it become it the overall design for your home and then finding those perfect pieces cannot be thought about frivolously. Many new or reproduction pieces of are sold as sets and therefore, buying as many or as few pieces of a fixed arrangement is completely up to you. However, when they are buying antiques, purists will want sets of antique chairs only from the same era, design and even the same maker. But finding complete sets of antique furniture that have withstood the test of time can often be a very difficult and expensive endeavor.

There are various ways of doing it though, that are not as difficult, and most people who design their home with antiques will go this route. They buy only antique furniture that they like and do not get stuck on any particular period or designer. If you do this, it will give your home an element of uniqueness and individuality that new furniture will never be able to duplicate. And whatever you buy will be an investment for the future.

Someone said: "An antique is an investment. You’re not going to find something like this in a new furniture store. It might cost you a little bit more, but it also won’t fall apart in three years."

Finding the right pieces is not only a financial investment but is also an investment of your time. Reading and studying about antiques, learning their history, attending auctions and searching through countless antique furniture shops and asking antiques dealers for their opinion and advice will serve to expand your knowledge. Right now it's a buyer’s market and a very good time to invest in antique furniture.

Here are some great tips for you if you're just starting out...

Lets begin with Descriptive Terms: You'll see or hear various descriptive terms used like "ball and claw feet", "bombe" or  "serpentine front". You should become familiar with these because you'll be seeing them used in ads and catalogs or hear them used by auctioneers or dealers. Here are a few more of the most commonly used terms used in the antique business to describe the appearance of a piece. "Original finish", means that the piece still retains its original coating. Another one is "original condition", which means that the antique item still has all its original parts. Other commonlyused terms include "patina", which is the look that antique items have as a result of years of wear and tear, and "povenance", which is the documented history of an antique item.

Once you become familiar with terms used in the antique furniture market, you will be much better able to evaluate some of the prices that you'll actually see in the market. Some of these items, which can include very simple pieces, are really very expensive.

Next you should know which styles you prefer: Items that are for sale are usually identified by style ie: Edwardian, Adam, Chippendale, Queen Ann, Louis XVI, etc.

Then visit the antiques section of your local bookstore and library, or go online for reference guides: The Internet is a great source for information and photographs of various antique furniture styles and periods.

Visit local museums and become familiar with different periods and designs: Seeing antique furniture pieces and room settings in person will help you identify it when you find it at an antique shop or auction.

Then, learn to recognize the defects that could impact the value of a piece such as, damage to the finish, cracks in joints or incorrect or reproduction hardware replacing the original.

Other important characteristics of authenticity you should consider are:

* Dimensions of boards on tabletops, bureaus and dressers...this will also help to tell the item's age.
* Saw marks on backs of chests and under tables...this also shows it's age.
* Secondary wood inside drawers and on dresser backs...specific woods were used during certain periods.
* Original paint finish exposing some cracks and original material...a good sign,sometimes called "patina"
* Glass on antique mirrors should be very thin...this can be easily determined...learn how.
* Wormholes on the surface of any wood piece...learn to recognize them as a definite sign of age.

Meet antique dealers and discuss your wants: They'll have many sources in other areas of the country or even the world and can be very helpful in expanding your search. They can also be helpful in explaining how to recognize the difference between an authentic antique and a reproduction.

Attend auctions: but be sure to select auction houses that guarantees their sales. And, if you're not looking for high end pieces, try country auctions...you may just find a bargain.

Watch the newspaper for local estate sales: Many times a member of the estate may be at the sale and will be able  yoto give you details about the piece's provenance or history.

Scour antiquing publications for ads or conduct your own search on the Internet for antique shows in your area that specialize in furniture. Flea markets are another great source for good buys.

And lastly, do not expect perfection when you buy antique furniture that may be more than 100 years old: Signs of wear should be visible in places where you'd expect it, like the bottoms of chair legs or underneath drawer runners.

I hope this has been helpful and you've gained some knowledge to work with in your quest to shop for, find and buy antique furniture pieces for your home!
 
Please visit our website; we stock a large collection where you can buy antique furniture lighting and accessories. 

Collecting antique furniture can be quite different from collecting other antique items. It differs in that it's more a matter of  personal choice and utility than in amassing a large or rare collection. Certainly you can see and admire your latest acquisition, but these are pieces you'll be using and living with along with admiring them.

It would not be common, nor even affordable, for most of us to acquire a collection of 18th century  French armoires or commodes, and there certainly would not be enough room in most average sized homes for two or three large antique bookcases. Although antique furniture can be seen and admired, it is also made to be seated on, slept on, seated around or utilized for storage. Once you buy a piece it becomes part of your home and lifestyle...it is meant to be used and enjoyed. 

Antique pieces of furniture can accommodate every part of a home. The best examples however would be in the living room where some of the best  of the18th and 19th century was designed to be used. For example, in England, Chippendale designed some energetic and lavishly upholstered settees and sofas. These were then revived during Victoria’s reign and would still provide stylish and serviceable furniture today. Victorian wing chairs can still be easily found and are very comfortable. Antique secretary desks and bookcases, again both period and revival, are great choices for writing on and displaying books. There are also any number of small, medium and large sized antique tables that would be perfect for occasional and dining use. Also sets of dining chairs, representative of all the well known 18th and 19th century cabinet makers, that are well constructed and have stood the test of time, would be a great addition in a home.

If you'd like to shop for or buy vintage or antique furniture and furnish your home with antique tables, chairs, desks, chandeliers or commodes, you can view an extensive collection of antique furniture here .

American Pickers

How often have you either read or heard about an auction where the price quoted for an item just didn’t seem reasonable...it was either way too high or way too low? Or, have you ever walked into an antique shop or show and wondered, “Where do they get the idea they can ask that much money for that ?”   Just what determines the asking or the eventual selling price of an antique or collectible? Very often the answer is simply whatever the merchant paid for the item plus some arbitrary percentage or absolute dollar amount or whatever lowball figure the buyer could beat out of the seller. But what really determines the ultimate value of an item, whether it be a 300-year-old antique chair or a 30-year-old HO-gauge train set? The universal answer has four parts: Quality, Condition, Rarity and Demand. Quality In the early 1970’s best seller “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,” author Robert Pirsig chronicled his long decline into mental instability while pursuing his personal definition of “quality.” I don’t think we need to get that intense. But quality, while difficult to define, is an extremely important element in the value of an antique or collectible. Quality may be seen as a level of excellence—excellence in the concept of the piece, excellence in the design and excellence in the execution. A well-built cabinet, for example, will advertise its quality by its stability and function. The doors will open easily and the drawers will operate smoothly. The finish is clean, the color is good, the joinery is well done, the choice of materials is sound and the scale is correct. Quality implies attention to detail in the production of the item, whether it be entirely hand made or constructed on an assembly line. Quality implies a caring on the part of the producer or builder and carries a pride that shows in the finished product. And no matter the final definition, most of us know quality when we see it. Or at least we think we do, like the satisfying, solid sounding thump of a door closing on an expensive car. Condition This is not to be confused with quality. Quality is how the piece was made. Condition is how it has survived since then. A high-quality item in poor condition certainly has less value than a comparable item in excellent condition. However, condition can often be improved by a competent professional. Quality is fixed. That is why a poor-quality item in perfect condition will almost never be as valuable as a high quality piece in a lesser state of affairs. Take the example of a piece of Depression era “Borax” furniture that has been in storage for 70 years. Even with its perfect condition, its poor original quality will keep it from ever attaining the value of a carefully crafted bench-made piece of similar age, even though it may have some condition “issues.” Of course, there is a point of compromise at which quality and condition are equal, but that state is seldom achieved and seldom recognized when it is. Rarity This trait is often confused with age. Early Roman Empire coins for example are thousands of years old but are they rare? No, because so many of them were made (millions?) and so many of them survive. Many Roman coins are worth only the value of the metal they contain. Another example is one of the most famous style chairs of the early 19th century—Hitchcock chairs. Lambert Hitchcock had a great idea and he made a very good chair. It’s just that he made thousands and thousands of them, beginning in 1826 on the assembly line in his factory in Connecticut (he was ahead of Henry Ford on that subject by 80 or 90 years). And thousand of his mass produced chairs survive today. They are 175 years old and they are beautiful but they are not rare. Therefore, they do not always command the price that may be seen for the work of another chair craftsman who produced only a limited number of well-made chairs. Demand Finally there is the reality of demand—the marketplace. Even if a piece has all the other elements that make up value, if there is no demand—if there is no one who wants to buy it, then there is no value and there is no sale. There are lots of reasons for lack of demand: a poor economy; a social or political stigma on the product; a geographical anomaly in the buying population; a lack of appreciation for the art or genius of the maker. Or it may be as simple as a lack of advertising that the product is available or even the unattractive display of the product when a potential buyer is present. Or it may just be that there is no demand for the item at that price. At some other price, demand may be stimulated. For an antique or collectible to have real value, all four elements of the equation must be in balance with the asking price.

Early American
The earliest known piece of American furniture is a chest of drawers made around 1660. It's very rectangular and has a distinctive carved frame-and-panel construction. Altough it  is reminiscent of earlier British" Age of Oak" pieces, it is recognized  as a distinctly American in style. Many other early Colonial era pieces, such as wainscot chairs and heavy joint-tables, are similarly in the "Age of Oak"  tradition.

By the end of the period, the influence of the British William and Mary style was being felt. Compared to earlier Jacobean and Carolean pieces this was a much lighter, more elegant style. Inverted cup-turned legs, bun feet, and serpentine stretchers make this style very identifiable, especially in comparison with the Queen Anne style that followed, marking the beginning of the 18th century.

The 18th Century
To understand the term "18th-century furniture," it is most informative to refer to the following terms, all of which may also be defined as 18th century: William and Mary, Queen Anne, Georgian, Chippendale, Hepplewhite, Sheraton, Adam, Regency, Federal, and the French periods of the Louis, Directoire, and Empire.

In essence, however, all 18th-century furniture, whether American, British, or French...and there is much connection between the first two and a great deal of dependence of these two on the latter  all share an informed and purposely trained construction that is distinct from a lot of  subsequent furniture. There is both less of the unrestrained commercialism typical of the mass-produced furniture of the 19th century with its never ending "Revival" styles, and less of the often self-indulgent estheticism of so-called studio or art furniture typical of the 20th century.

Eighteenth-century furniture may be commonly thought of as representing the golden age of the cabinetmaker, trained in the "Arts and Mysteries of the Craft," which manifests as highly finished, sophisticated designs, albeit stylistically often as widely divergent from one another as is a cabriole leg from a Federal taper.

The 19th Century
The 19th century is marked by the Industrial Revolution, which caused profound changes in society. With increased working populations in cities, the rise of a new class of wealthy (but not necessarily informed) furniture buyers, together with the arrival of mass-production and the consequent demise of the individual craftsman-designer, the gradual progression of furniture styles that had characterized previous centuries was replaced by a riot of often poorly imitated styles.

Since mass-production of parts became easy and inexpensive, it was a simple matter to graft more or less historically correct ornaments onto all sorts of furniture, thereby making possible a continual stream of "revival" styles to feed the public’s appetite. The result was a century of furniture whose commonest denominator was excessive ornament in the form of applied metal or wood carvings, inlays, or stencils, marketed variously under the guise of so-called Rococo Revival, Gothic Revival, Renaissance and Italian Revivals, Greek, Roman, and Egyptian Revivals, and even various Eastern Revivals.

20th Century
The term"20th Century" is only very generally useful, since it includes so many distinct styles more helpful when understood on their own. But it can mean anything produced after the 19th century, representing relatively contemporary furniture, as opposed to period furniture.

Styles such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco, while remaining useful inspirations for subsequent 20th-century styles, are quite distinct from most Modern and Post-modern furniture, and none of the above can be considered as quintessentially representative of the20th century.

The fact is, however, that due the availability of a much larger choice of materials than ever before, and because of an increased awareness of historical and cross-cultural esthetics, 20th-century furniture is perhaps more diverse, in terms of style, than the entire three centuries that preceded it.

               This is a very fine antique Cuban crotch mahogany cylinder desk.



How to Care For Fine Antique Furniture

One of the many questions people ask about antiques is how to take care of valuable antique furniture. Here are a few tips on how to preserve these prized possessions. Avoid exposing furniture to extremes of temperatures which can accelerate cracking, dulling the finish and loosening the joints and veneer. Curtains or shades should be used to diffuse or block sunlight whenever possible. Quite often clear finishes will turn yellow or opaque from the exposure to sunlight.

Be very careful not to place beverage glasses, flower vases or any other table-top items on surfaces without a coaster or mat for protection. Make it a point to periodically wipe or dust with a soft cloth. Occasionally use a barely dampened cloth with a solvent-based cleaning wax to wipe the surface in order to pick up more dust. Be sure to immediately wipe with a dry cloth or soft paper towel. Never use spray waxes and polishes on surfaces as they will leave a higher gloss and some silicone which may create other problems. You may wish to occasionally wax with paste wax. Rub on a very light coat with a soft cloth and then immediately buff it with another soft cloth. Be sure all wax is completely buffed until hard to avoid smears and streaks.

Antique furniture may also be affected by the amount of moisture in the air. Changes in relative humidity can cause wood to expand and contract leading to loosening of glue joints and drawers and doors getting stuck. The use of a humidifier or dehumidifier will help to maintain the relative humidity and minimize the adverse effects that moisture can have on  valuable antique furniture. Experts say antique furniture should not be cared for or repaired in the same manner as modern home furnishings. The use of polishes, adhesives, fasteners and finishes can dramatically affect the current and future value of such pieces. The basic rules of Antique Furniture Care are - avoid placing antique furniture in front of a window or direct sunlight or near air conditioning and heating vents,

Do not place your antique furniture near fireplaces and stoves, Dust regularly using a lint free cloth. Of course, all of us agree that not all antique furniture has monetary, artistic or even historical value. Many antiques increase in value when they are properly restored after complete refinishing and repair. If you happen to possess a piece with significant historical value, it is advisable to consult a licensed appraiser for values and conservator before making any repairs or restoration.

Wood, leather, fabric and upholstery material such as horsehair can attract insects and other small pests. Cockroaches can damage the existing finish by feeding on the build up of body oils, grease and dirt that has accumulated on the surface. Small rodents are attracted to the upholstery materials found in antiques for use when nesting. All insects and pests activities should be addressed by consulting pest control professionals.

The appearance and exotic finish of antique furniture can be enhanced without damaging its originality. Consulting a restoration expert will help preserve the antiquity value. Maintaining the time-honored original finish should be the primary consideration.

When moving your antique furniture from one place to another, you should always check for loose or damaged joints. Chairs should always be carried by the seat rails as opposed to the back splat, top rail or arms. Tables should be carried by the legs instead of the top which could pull it loose from the base. Large pieces should always be lifted and never dragged across the floor. When transporting your antique furniture it is advisable to first remove shelves, doors and drawers. Protect glass doors with moving blankets or other adequate padding. 

I hope this is helpful to you and that you will enjoy your antique furniture for many years!

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